Nicola Tesla is one of the most famous Croats. Though he was born in Smiljan, Croatia (about 125 miles south), he’s honored around the city and country.

Nav:

Capital of Croatia. A city with Roman, Ottomans, Austria-Hungarians, and Soviet history. The Upper Town is the ‘old town’ and the Lower Town is newer (founded in 1094).

Nicola Tesla, deep in thought.
Grič Tunnel. It provided shelter during WWII.
It’s now a pedestrian shortcut.
St. Mark’s Church
Dolac Market, with many meat, produce, and flower stalls.
Kumica Barica. The kumice are the ladies who have run this market through their individual stalls since the 1930s.
Zagreb Cathedral. It was damaged in two earthquakes in 2019. They’ve struggled with financing and post-COVID labor.
A traditional dance troupe in the park.
Benedikt Kotruljevio. Developed the system of double accounting ledgers.

Nosh:

Classic dishes here are savory and filling.

Goulash with gnocchi at Pivnica Mali Medo
Thai Noodles from Umami
Mixed grill and…
traditional bean soup at Purger

Nip:

Beer reigns in the Balkan beverage scene. There are some good ones in Zagreb.

For a cool bar, check out The Pharmacy. Just like it sounds, it’s an old pharmacy turned into a bar.

The Pharmacy still has old apothecary cabinets.
Dukovarsko Domace Pivo and Grif New England IPA at The Pharmacy.